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This online workshop describes the fabrication of a rectangular baker. Both wheel thrown and hand building techniques are shown. The decoration process using hand painted underglaze is also described. This piece is for an advanced potter. However pulling handles and glazing) can all be used by a beginner to make a less complicated piece such as a small bowl or mug.
The two major parts of the baker (bottom and sides) are wheel thrown and altered prior to assembly. It might seem appropriate to use slab rolled pieces but experience has shown using wheel thrown techniques prevents cracks from forming during drying and firing.
The baker described here is rather large (11 in. x 15 in.).
NOTES:The following hand tools and material are required:
| HAND TOOLS | MATERIAL | |
| 2-18" Bats | 16-20# clay | |
| canvas 18"x20" | slip | |
| pin tool | underglazes | |
| wooden rib | wax resist | |
| metal scraper/rib | glaze | |
| wooden knife | ||
| sponge | ||
| chamois | ||
| toggle clay cutter | ||
| brushes | ||
| ware board 18"x20" | ||
| square |
Prepare two pieces of clay, approximately 7 lbs. for the bottom and 6 lbs. for the sides, using a spiral wedging process. Work the clay using the heel of one hand and the palm of the other. Push the clay from heel to palm and back again creating a rolling motion. Periodically slice the clay using a toggle clay cutter and slap it together again repeating the wedging.
NOTE: The purpose of wedging is to remove any air pockets trapped in the clay and condition it for throwing.
Mount a clean bat on the wheel head. Place the clay for the bottom (7 lbs.) on the bat. Center the clay on the wheel by alternately pressing in and forcing the clay up into a cylinder shape and pushing it back down and in. Use both hands held as shown in the pictures.
NOTE: The bottom should be approximately 16 in. or greater in diameter and 3/8 in. thick at the end of this step.
Press the clay into a pancake shape. Use your forearm if your hand is not strong enough. Now start pulling the clay out to the side and compressing it using the side of your hand and wrist. Using your fingers and the flat of your hand push the clay out into a large pancake shape forming the bottom. Use a rib for the final compression and smoothing.
NOTE: It is important to compress the clay downward while moving it out to prevent the bottom from cracking.
Stop the wheel and use a wire to cut the bottom from the bat using a toggle clay cutter. Take care to hold the wire tight against the bat. Remove the bat from the wheel head and set it aside.
Mount a clean bat. Place the clay previously wedged for the sides (6 lbs.) on the bat. Center it as described in step 3.
NOTE: The ring should be approximately 16 in. in diameter at the end of this step.
Start to open using the side of your hand and fingers. As you continue to open use your hand and fingers as shown. Pull the clay outward leaving a small amount on the bottom to be sure the piece remains fastened to the bat as it is thrown. Holding your hands as shown, continue pull outward until it is about 16 in. in diameter.
NOTE: The side should be approximately 3 1/2 in. high, 1/4 in. thick and 16 in. or less in diameter at the end of this step.
At this point collar the ring in and then pull it upward with 2 to 3 pulls. Keep the side vertical and the same thickness from bottom to top. Finish each pull by compressing the lip. Use a wooden rib to smooth the outside and straighten it. Finish the edge using your fingers and a chamois as shown.
Slow down the wheel and use a wooden knife to cut the inside bottom edge down to the bat. Slow the wheel almost to a stop and use a Toggle clay cutter to cut the clay from the bat. Remove the bat from the wheel. Set both the bottom and side pieces aside to dry for a couple of hours or more depending on the drying conditions.
NOTE: The side needs to be dry enough to handle but soft enough so that it doesn't crack on the corners as you shape it.
NOTE: The bottom must be large enough to cut a rectangle approximately 12 in. x 17 in. from it and 1/4 in. thick at the end of this step.
Lay a canvas on a ware board. Remove the bottom piece from the bat and place it on the canvas.
Proceed to alternately stretch and compress the bottom. The stretching is accomplished by picking the piece up by one side and swinging it out gently and plopping it down on the canvas in a sweeping motion. Repeat this several times from opposite sides so that the piece starts to form an oval/rectangular shape.
Periodically use a metal scraper/rib to compress the clay against the canvas by pulling it across the surface. This also helps to form it to the desired shape.
Keep repeating this cycle of stretching and compression until the bottom reaches the desired size and shape.
NOTE: The compression is important to prevent the bottom from cracking.
When the desired size is reached use a square and pin tool to lightly mark the largest possible rectangle on the clay.
Place the bat with the side on it near the bottom. Carefully lift the side off the bat and place it on the bottom as shown.
Align the sides to the bottom by gently positioning them with your hands until they form a rectangle.
NOTE: The bottom should extend beyond the sides.
Cut scraps of clay from excess on the bottom edge with the pin tool. Roll out coils using these scraps. Brush slip on them.
Press these coils into the joint between the sides and the bottom on both the inside and outside of the baker.
Using your fingers work them into the joint all the way around on both the inside and outside.
Trim the bottom close to the side on the outside. Use your fingers to smooth the bottom edge until it is flush with the side.
To form the handles start with a couple of pounds of wedged clay in a cone shape.
Pull the handle while repeatedly wetting your hand. As it nears its final size use your thumb to give a U shape to the cross section.
Pinch off the first handle and set it aside.
Pull a second handle from the same piece of clay. Allow both handles to set for a few minutes until they firm up a bit.
Using a pin tool scratch the surface on the side of the baker where the handles will attach. Brush slip on the scratched area.
Trim the handles using a pin tool. Firmly press one end of the handle on the side of the baker to attach it. Bend the handle into position and attach the other end of it. Set the baker aside and loosely cover it with plastic for a day or two until it is leather hard.
When the piece is leather hard remove the canvas from under the bottom. Use a moist sponge to remove any sharp corners on the bottom edge and clean up the piece. To clean the bottom hang the edge over the table.
NOTE: Do not try to turn the baker upside down.
While the piece is leather hard paint on the design using underglazes.
Allow the piece to dry thoroughly.
NOTE: You can make your own underglazes using a white slip (85% gerstley borate and 15% zircopax by weight) combined with Mason Stains or oxides for color.
When the piece is thoroughly dry bisque fire it to cone 06 in a kiln.
Brush wax resist on the bottom of the bisque piece.
Glaze the piece by dipping it into a bucket of glaze. First dip it half way in and allow the glaze to dry. Then dip the other half in. Again, allow the baker to thoroughly dry.
NOTE: I use a clear cone 6 glaze called "Gail's Clear".
After allowing the baker to thoroughly dry glaze fire it.
NOTE: I glaze fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln.
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Copyright © 2000 Sara Ostrov & Ray Clark
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